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Varanasi Brocade · Uttar Pradesh

Zari Border Banarasi Tanchoi Sari

KL/51/2024 · Accession222" × 45"Varanasi BrocadeCatalogued 17.07.2024Good condition
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KL/51/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/51/2024
Object Title
Zari Border Banarasi Tanchoi Sari
Production State
Uttar Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Varanasi Brocade
Craft Technique
Tanchoi; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Figured satin (tanchoi)
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Banarasi
Dimensions
222" × 45" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
17.07.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A silk tanchoi sari, crafted using the traditional satin weave technique, where the pattern is created with an extra primary weft, providing it a distinctive embossed effect.

A true masterpiece, the sari features delicately woven diagonal lines of floral vines flowing seamlessly across the body. The border, woven in pure silver zari, reflects the remarkable craftsmanship of the weaver.

The sari has a narrow pallu (end-piece), accentuated by three horizontal woven zari bands adorned with floral motifs. Each band is framed by a narrow border of meticulously woven flowers and leaves, further enriched by a continuous row of leaf-shaped motifs on either side.

The soft, pastel hue of the sari beautifully complements the shimmering silver zari.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Paisley
बूटा (कैरी)

Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Varanasi Brocade

Varanasi
Brocade

Tanchoi is a fine figured-silk weave in which one or two warp threads and several weft colours build a dense, all-over pattern with no loose floats on the reverse — the back is as clean as the front. Brought to Surat and later Varanasi by the Parsi community in the nineteenth century, the technique produces a self-toned, jamawar-like richness.

STEP 01
Set a fine multi-colour weft
STEP 02
Bind every weft into the ground
STEP 03
Build pattern through colour shifts
STEP 04
Finish with a contrasting border
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Tanchoi process
Fig. III.1 · Tanchoi · Self-toned brocade
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Zari Border Banarasi Tanchoi Sari (KL/51/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-51-2024.
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