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Kosa silk weaving · Chhattisgarh

Kosa Silk Sari with Warli Motifs

KL/52/2024 · Accession218" × 46"Kosa silk weavingCatalogued 18.07.2024● Good condition
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KL/52/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/52/2024
Object Title
Kosa Silk Sari with Warli Motifs
Production State
Chhattisgarh
Craft Tradition
Kosa silk weaving
Craft Technique
Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave
Primary Materials
Kosa silk
Tradition
Kosa Silk
Dimensions
218" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
BeigeMaroon
Condition
● Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
18.07.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

“A handwoven tussar silk sari, skilfully created by incorporating extra weft designs during the weaving process.”

The sari is woven by the weavers of Chhattisgarh belonging to the Dewangan tribe, one of the oldest weaving communities in India and the entire world. What sets this sari apart is its captivating portrayal of nature and tribal designs, inspired by the warli art tradition.

Adorning the pallu (end-piece) and border are intricate warli-style woven motifs depicting humans, trees, and animals, each detailed to capture the essence of tribal life. The body of the sari features delicate floral butis all over.

The pallu is finished with tassels. The tone-on-tone colour palette brings a touch of opulence to this timeless piece.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Kosa silk weaving

Kosa Silk
Weaving

Korvai is the Kanjivaram method of joining a contrasting border and pallu to the body of the sari by interlocking the two sets of warp threads on the loom — not by stitching. It allows a deep maroon body to carry a mustard border that will never come apart, and is the structural signature of a true Kanchipuram silk.

STEP 01
Set two contrasting warps
STEP 02
Interlock the warps at the join
STEP 03
Weave with up to three shuttles
STEP 04
Add the supplementary zari
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Korvai process
Fig. III.1 · Korvai · Contrast-border joining
Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Kosa Silk Sari with Warli Motifs (KL/52/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 25 Oct 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-52-2024.
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