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Varanasi Brocade · Uttar Pradesh

Jamawar Tanchoi Banarasi Sari

KL/53/2024 · Accession224" × 45"Varanasi BrocadeCatalogued 18.02.2024Good condition
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KL/53/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/53/2024
Object Title
Jamawar Tanchoi Banarasi Sari
Production State
Uttar Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Varanasi Brocade
Craft Technique
Tanchoi; Jamawar; Handloom
Weave Type
Figured satin (tanchoi)
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Banarasi
Dimensions
224" × 45" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonGoldGreen
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
18.02.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A silk tanchoi (similar to amru brocade) sari with an all-over woven pattern and a background showcasing the characteristic satin finish.

Crafted using an extra set of colourful weft silk yarns in shades of green and majenta, the satin ground is ornamented with intricate floral sprays interspersed with twin kairi (paisley) motifs delicately arranged one atop the other.

Woven on a traditional Banarasi handloom, the sari embodies the distinctive tanchoi weaving technique, where a single coloured warp and two or multiple coloured primary weft threads intertwine to create a multi-hued design.

The pallu (end-piece) features an intricate array of kairis in varying in sizes and forms, arranged within three horizontal panels, creating a timeless pattern.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Paisley
बूटा (कैरी)

Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Varanasi Brocade

Varanasi
Brocade

Tanchoi is a fine figured-silk weave in which one or two warp threads and several weft colours build a dense, all-over pattern with no loose floats on the reverse — the back is as clean as the front. Brought to Surat and later Varanasi by the Parsi community in the nineteenth century, the technique produces a self-toned, jamawar-like richness.

STEP 01
Set a fine multi-colour weft
STEP 02
Bind every weft into the ground
STEP 03
Build pattern through colour shifts
STEP 04
Finish with a contrasting border
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Tanchoi process
Fig. III.1 · Tanchoi · Self-toned brocade
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Jamawar Tanchoi Banarasi Sari (KL/53/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-53-2024.
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