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Varanasi Brocade · Uttar Pradesh

Phulwar Banarasi Jamdani

KL/18/2024 · Accession220" × 45"Varanasi BrocadeCatalogued 17.05.2024Good condition
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KL/18/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/18/2024
Object Title
Phulwar Banarasi Jamdani
Production State
Uttar Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Varanasi Brocade
Craft Technique
Supp. weft; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Banarasi
Dimensions
220" × 45" (L × W)
Colour Palette
PinkGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
17.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A handwoven Banarasi silk jamdani sari is an inspired interpretation of the traditional jamdani technique of Dhaka.

The sari features a phulwar (running pattern of leaves and flowers) pattern that runs across the body and pallu (end-piece).

This intricate pattern is crafted using heavier threads in silk and zari on a lighter translucent backdrop.

The sari is further adorned with a glittering gold zari border and pallu, embodying the perfect fusion of tradition and modernity.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Paisley
बूटा (कैरी)

Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Varanasi Brocade

Varanasi
Brocade

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Phulwar Banarasi Jamdani (KL/18/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-18-2024.
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