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Varanasi Brocade · Uttar Pradesh

Butidar Cutwork Banarasi Sari

KL/21/2024 · Accession222" × 45"Varanasi BrocadeCatalogued 19.05.2024Good condition
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KL/21/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/21/2024
Object Title
Butidar Cutwork Banarasi Sari
Production State
Uttar Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Varanasi Brocade
Craft Technique
Cutwork; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Banarasi
Dimensions
222" × 45" (L × W)
Colour Palette
IndigoGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
19.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A handwoven Banarasi cutwork sari showcases gold zari borders and pallu (end-piece), adorned with dense floral butis throughout.

Utilizing the cutwork brocade weaving technique, the sari is distinguished by the cut edges around each motif at the back, where the running threads between motifs are manually cut away.

The use of gold zari as the supplementary weft adds a touch of sophistication and artistry.

The border features floral butis in small meandering compartments, a pattern that is mirrored on the pallu in a larger size, enhancing the overall elegance and intricate detailing of the sari.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Paisley
बूटा (कैरी)

Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Varanasi Brocade

Varanasi
Brocade

In cutwork (sometimes called the lattice or jaal jamdani method), the supplementary pattern weft is floated freely across the back of the cloth and then carefully sheared away between motifs once the weaving is done — leaving crisp, isolated figures on a sheer ground. It is the everyday cousin of true jamdani, faster to weave and widely produced in Bengal and Varanasi.

STEP 01
Weave with floated supplementary weft
STEP 02
Complete the ground cloth
STEP 03
Shear the floats by hand
STEP 04
Finish and wash
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Cutwork process
Fig. III.1 · Cutwork · Loose-thread shearing
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Butidar Cutwork Banarasi Sari (KL/21/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-21-2024.
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