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Varanasi Brocade · Uttar Pradesh

Jangla-Patterned Banarasi Sari

KL/19/2024 · Accession222" × 45"Varanasi BrocadeCatalogued 18.05.2024Good condition
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KL/19/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
© The Krishna Lal Collection · Photography by [studio] · Licensed CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 for scholarly use. Request high-resolution access via Research Office.
Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/19/2024
Object Title
Jangla-Patterned Banarasi Sari
Production State
Uttar Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Varanasi Brocade
Craft Technique
Supp. weft; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Banarasi
Dimensions
222" × 45" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
18.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A classic handwoven Banarasi sari adorned with jangla pattern with an all-over web of florals in fine silver zari, crafted in the traditional phekwa weaving style.

The zari threads at the back of the sari have been meticulously cut, showcasing the intricate cutwork technique. Edged with a contrasting aqua blue selvage, the sari epitomizes elegance with its subtle colour palette and incredibly intricate design.

The delicate kairis (paisleys) along the borders are complemented by a diamond-patterned zari border, a floral vine border, and a narrow chevron-patterned zari border, adding an extra touch of decadence. The sari is completed with a detailed zari pallu, featuring kairis enclosed within floral vine borders on both sides, making it a timeless piece of art.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Paisley
बूटा (कैरी)

Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Varanasi Brocade

Varanasi
Brocade

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Jangla-Patterned Banarasi Sari (KL/19/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-19-2024.
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