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Varanasi Brocade · Uttar Pradesh

Zari Polka-Dot Banarasi Jamdani

KL/20/2024 · Accession224" × 45"Varanasi BrocadeCatalogued 18.05.2024Good condition
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KL/20/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/20/2024
Object Title
Zari Polka-Dot Banarasi Jamdani
Production State
Uttar Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Varanasi Brocade
Craft Technique
Supp. weft; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Banarasi
Dimensions
224" × 45" (L × W)
Colour Palette
BlackGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
18.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

An exquisite handwoven Banarasi sari features the Banarasi jamdani weaving technique, inspired by the traditional jamdani weaving of Dhaka.

The silk fabric base is brocaded with extra wefts (pattern threads) made of silk yarns, both plain and those entwined with fine gold wire, giving it a glittery touch. The motifs are neatly clipped at the back, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship.

The body of the sari is adorned with a dense polka-dot (duria) pattern enhanced with touches of gold zari, endowing the fabric with a soothing shine and an opulent look. Additionally, the sari boasts two large kairi (paisley) butas woven at the corners where the pallu intersects with the border (koniya), the most attractive feature of the jamdani sari, enhancing its traditional charm and elegance.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
3 motifs identified
Paisley
बूटा (कैरी)

Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Varanasi Brocade

Varanasi
Brocade

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Zari Polka-Dot Banarasi Jamdani (KL/20/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-20-2024.
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