An independent scholarly archive · Est. 2026 · New Delhi
A Textile Archive
The Krishna Lal Collection
Home/Collection/Andhra Pradesh/KL/50/2024◂ PreviousObject 50 of 55Next ▸
Uppada Jamdani · Andhra Pradesh

Peacock Splendour Uppada Jamdani

KL/50/2024 · Accession218" × 46"Uppada JamdaniCatalogued 03.07.2024Good condition
↗ Cite↧ Download record★ Save
KL/50/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
© The Krishna Lal Collection · Photography by [studio] · Licensed CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 for scholarly use. Request high-resolution access via Research Office.
Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/50/2024
Object Title
Peacock Splendour Uppada Jamdani
Production State
Andhra Pradesh
Craft Tradition
Uppada Jamdani
Craft Technique
Jamdani; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Jamdani
Dimensions
218" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
Peacock blueGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
03.07.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A black Uppada jamdani sari, known for its unique jamdani technique, features a thick gold zari border that frames both the length and width of the sari.

The body of the sari is adorned with woven floral motifs sparsely placed throughout and gradually becomes denser towards the pallu (end-piece). The same gold zari border forms a rectangular compartment within the pallu.

Within this compartment, there are four pairs of peacock motifs crafted with precision using gold zari threads. Each pair of peacocks mirrors each other.

The timeless colour combination of black, gold, and maroon adds a touch of elegance to the sari, elevating its overall appeal.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
3 motifs identified
Peacock
मयूर

Royal grace; sovereignty; the monsoon's herald. Identified across the body and pallu of this object.

Open motif entry
Lotus
कमल

Purity; spiritual awakening; cosmic order. Identified across the lengthwise borders of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Uppada Jamdani

Uppada
Jamdani

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Peacock Splendour Uppada Jamdani (KL/50/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-50-2024.
ChicagoMLAAPABibTeX
Institutional Access
High-resolution archival files and physical examination access are available to museums and accredited researchers.
Open Research Inquiry