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Pochampally ikat · Telangana

Pochampally Ikat with Animal & Bird Motifs

KL/45/2024 · Accession210" × 46"Pochampally ikatCatalogued 06.06.2024Good condition
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KL/45/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/45/2024
Object Title
Pochampally Ikat with Animal & Bird Motifs
Production State
Telangana
Craft Tradition
Pochampally ikat
Craft Technique
Ikat; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Resist-dyed (ikat) plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk
Tradition
Ikat
Dimensions
210" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonCreamGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
06.06.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A handwoven Pochampalli silk sari, distinguished by its perfectly reversible design, hazy contours, and feathered edges.

The lengthwise borders on either side depict a majestic procession of parrots and elephants, all moving in confluence, as if marching forward in harmony. The body of the sari brings this vision to life, portraying a grand assembly of parrots and elephants across a vast field, all gazing in the same direction, reinforcing the impression of a grand procession.

The use of gold zari in the borders adds an opulent touch, making them stand out brilliantly against the richly woven patterns. The pallu (end-piece) continues the narrative, featuring the same motifs, now arranged in three horizontal panels, with the figures appearing in a smaller, more intricate scale.

The vibrant colour palette adds to the royalty of the sari.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Elephant
गज

Royalty, strength, ceremonial power. Identified across the pallu panel of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Pochampally ikat

Pochampally
Ikat

Ikat is among the most demanding of textile techniques — the resist-dye is applied not to finished cloth, but to the yarn itself, before a single thread reaches the loom. Bundles of warp (or weft, or both) are bound and dyed in successive colour baths; the pattern emerges as the loom finally aligns them. In India, three lineages dominate: the double-ikat patola of Patan in Gujarat, the bandha of Odisha, and the cotton and silk ikats of Pochampally and Puttapaka in Telangana.

STEP 01
Sketch the design on graph paper
STEP 02
Bind the yarn bundles with rubber
STEP 03
Dye in successive baths
STEP 04
Align warp and weft on the loom
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Ikat process
Fig. III.1 · Ikat · Resist-dye weaving
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Pochampally Ikat with Animal & Bird Motifs (KL/45/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-45-2024.
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