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Pochampally ikat · Telangana

All-Over Pochampally Single Ikat

KL/07/2024 · Accession208" × 46"Pochampally ikatCatalogued 08.05.2024Good condition
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KL/07/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/07/2024
Object Title
All-Over Pochampally Single Ikat
Production State
Telangana
Craft Tradition
Pochampally ikat
Craft Technique
Ikat; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Resist-dyed (ikat) plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk
Tradition
Ikat
Dimensions
208" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
Dark greenBlackDark yellowGoldSteel gray
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
08.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

The allure of this handwoven single ikat Pochampally silk sari lies in its rich colour palette, with the rich dark green base taking centre stage.

The body of the sari features a delightful medley of geometric ikat patterns spread all over, continuing into the pallu (end-piece).

The pallu is distinguished by rows of plain black bands with gold zari lines dividing it into four sections and finished with self-fabric fringes.

Repeating rows of narrow gold zari kaddi border embellish the two lengthwise sides of the sari, adding a regal touch to the overall design.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Elephant
गज

Royalty, strength, ceremonial power. Identified across the pallu panel of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Pochampally ikat

Pochampally
Ikat

Ikat is among the most demanding of textile techniques — the resist-dye is applied not to finished cloth, but to the yarn itself, before a single thread reaches the loom. Bundles of warp (or weft, or both) are bound and dyed in successive colour baths; the pattern emerges as the loom finally aligns them. In India, three lineages dominate: the double-ikat patola of Patan in Gujarat, the bandha of Odisha, and the cotton and silk ikats of Pochampally and Puttapaka in Telangana.

STEP 01
Sketch the design on graph paper
STEP 02
Bind the yarn bundles with rubber
STEP 03
Dye in successive baths
STEP 04
Align warp and weft on the loom
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Ikat process
Fig. III.1 · Ikat · Resist-dye weaving
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). All-Over Pochampally Single Ikat (KL/07/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-07-2024.
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