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Pochampally ikat · Telangana

Patola-Inspired Pochampally Ikat

KL/06/2024 · Accession199" × 46"Pochampally ikatCatalogued 08.05.2024Good condition
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KL/06/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
© The Krishna Lal Collection · Photography by [studio] · Licensed CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 for scholarly use. Request high-resolution access via Research Office.
Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/06/2024
Object Title
Patola-Inspired Pochampally Ikat
Production State
Telangana
Craft Tradition
Pochampally ikat
Craft Technique
Ikat; Resist dyeing; Handloom
Weave Type
Resist-dyed (ikat) plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk
Tradition
Ikat
Dimensions
199" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
CreamOrangeGreenGold
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
08.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

This single ikat silk sari from Pochampally, inspired by patola designs, seamlessly weaves together the beauty of nature, the majestic presence of animals, and the rich heritage of patola craftsmanship.

The border comes alive with regal elephants, graceful peacocks, and delicate florals in vibrant hues. The body of the sari showcases a harmonious arrangement of diffused diamond patterns in orange.

One lengthwise side features gold zari kaddi bands that divide the border into three distinct sections, while the other side has a plain border with two gold zari kaddi bands. The border is edged with a row of temple motifs.

The pallu (end-piece) is narrow and adorned with two rows of bird motifs moving in opposite directions, adding to the sari’s charm.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Elephant
गज

Royalty, strength, ceremonial power. Identified across the pallu panel of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Pochampally ikat

Pochampally
Ikat

Resist dyeing protects chosen areas of cloth from the dye bath — with wax, mud paste, or tightly tied thread — so that pattern emerges as negative space. Gujarat's Ajrakh layers mud and lime resists across as many as sixteen stages; Rajasthani Bandhani ties thousands of minute points; Batik draws its lines in molten wax.

STEP 01
Map the resist areas
STEP 02
Apply the resist
STEP 03
Dye the cloth
STEP 04
Remove the resist
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Resist Dyeing process
Fig. III.1 · Resist Dyeing · Wax / mud / tie resists
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Patola-Inspired Pochampally Ikat (KL/06/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-06-2024.
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