Sambalpuri
Pasapalli Sambalpuri Bomkai
“This Bomkai silk sari, a handloom treasure from Odisha, is intricately handwoven on traditional looms in the village of Bomkai and nearby areas like Barpali, Bapatla, and Sonepur.”
Characterised by its elaborate extra weft design in body and pallu (end- piece) and extra warp design in the border, the sari is dyed in natural colours and boasts a soft texture. The distinct design and colour palette make this Bomkai sari truly stand out.
The borders are embellished with a sequence of ‘rui machchi’ (carp fish) motifs symbolizing abundance and prosperity, and rudraksha (bead) motifs arranged in five rows—three in the middle and one on each side. The body features kanthi phoola (small flower) motifs, representing beauty, purity, and elegance.
The pallu unfolds as a canvas of artistic expression, with recurring motifs from the sari border framing additional bands of floral motifs in varying sizes, the largest ones being in the centre. The traditional pallu, with its intricate handwoven designs, makes the sari a timeless classic.
Mango or cypress; eternal fertility and life. Identified across the body butis and border of this object.
Open motif entryGateway; sacred geometry of the south. Identified across the border and pallu of this object.
Open motif entryCosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.
Open motif entryIn supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.