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Kotpad weaving · Odisha

Phoda Kumbha Kotpad Sari

KL/29/2024 · Accession215" × 46"Kotpad weavingCatalogued 19.07.2024Good condition
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KL/29/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/29/2024
Object Title
Phoda Kumbha Kotpad Sari
Production State
Odisha
Craft Tradition
Kotpad weaving
Craft Technique
Natural dye; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave
Primary Materials
Cotton
Tradition
Kotpad
Dimensions
215" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonCream
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
19.07.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A Kotpad handloom sari, woven on a three-shuttle pit loom by the tribal weavers of the Mirgan community in Kotpad village, Koraput district, Odisha.

Despite its rough and coarse texture, the sari is gentle on the skin and naturally dyed in the reddish tinge from the roots of the Indian madder, ‘aul’.

The body and pallu (end-piece) are adorned with tribal motifs, meticulously hand-counted and handpicked by the weaver using the extra weft technique.

The “phoda kumbha border,” a distinctive element of Odisha handlooms and a variation of the traditional temple border, adorns the sari, adding to its cultural and aesthetic appeal.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Temple
मंदिर

Gateway; sacred geometry of the south. Identified across the border and pallu of this object.

Open motif entry
Rudraksha
रुद्राक्ष

Sacred bead; protection and meditation. Identified across the framing border of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Kotpad weaving

Kotpad
Weaving

Several of India's painted-textile traditions descend directly from ritual wall and floor art: Madhubani from the Mithila murals of Bihar, Warli from the Adivasi wall paintings of Maharashtra, Sohrai from the harvest art of eastern India. Applied to silk and cotton with natural pigments and bamboo or twig pens, they carry a graphic, narrative density unlike any woven design.

STEP 01
Prime the cloth
STEP 02
Sketch the composition
STEP 03
Fill with natural pigments
STEP 04
Outline and detail
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Hand Painting process
Fig. III.1 · Hand Painting · Pigments on cloth
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Phoda Kumbha Kotpad Sari (KL/29/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-29-2024.
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