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Paithani sari weaving · Maharashtra

Paithani Sari with Peacock Pallu

KL/28/2024 · Accession207" × 47"Paithani sari weavingCatalogued 19.07.2024Excellent condition
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KL/28/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/28/2024
Object Title
Paithani Sari with Peacock Pallu
Production State
Maharashtra
Craft Tradition
Paithani sari weaving
Craft Technique
Supp. weft (tapestry); Handloom
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Paithani
Dimensions
207" × 47" (L × W)
Colour Palette
CrèmePinkOrangeGold
Condition
Excellent — Pristine, fully stable
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
19.07.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A handwoven paithani sari crafted from pure silk and zari, featuring a traditional border and a grand pallu (end-piece).

The sari has a crème base, a vibrant orange border, and a pallu. The highlight of this sari is its rich pallu, showcasing intricate and elaborate traditional paithani motifs such as peacocks, floral and geometric patterns, and muniya motifs, woven with fine silk threads on a gold zari base.

The body of the sari has a simpler design, adorned with small butis that complement the richness of the pallu, creating a balanced and harmonious look. The contrast between the cream body and the richly adorned pallu creates a visually stunning effect.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Peacock
मयूर

Royal grace; sovereignty; the monsoon's herald. Identified across the body and pallu of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Paithani sari weaving

Paithani Sari
Weaving

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Paithani Sari with Peacock Pallu (KL/28/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-28-2024.
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