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Baluchari · West Bengal

Baluchari Meenakari Sari

KL/27/2024 · Accession220" × 46"BaluchariCatalogued 17.07.2024Good condition
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KL/27/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/27/2024
Object Title
Baluchari Meenakari Sari
Production State
West Bengal
Craft Tradition
Baluchari
Craft Technique
Brocade; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Baluchari
Dimensions
220" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonCream
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
17.07.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A hanwoven baluchari (meenakari*) sari features a floral border running lengthwise, crafted using the traditional ‘jala*’ technique.

The design motifs are seamlessly placed within perfect rectangular closed corners, maintaining the continuity of the design without break – a typical characteristic of an authentic baluchari sari. Dot-sized flowers arranged vertically in alternating rows complement the meticulously woven floral butis adorning the body of the sari.

The pallu (end-piece) showcases a central panel with large kairi (paisley) motifs, enclosed within a floral border on all sides. Surrounding this central panel are smaller rectangles depicting scenes of East India Company officials conversing with women.

Depictions of animals, such as lions, also enrich the visual appeal of the sari.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Elephant
गज

Royalty, strength, ceremonial power. Identified across the pallu panel of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Baluchari

Baluchari

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Baluchari Meenakari Sari (KL/27/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-27-2024.
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