Kantha
Bengal Kantha Sari
“A handwoven cutwork cotton sari features motifs inspired by the jamdani weaving technique.”
Though not authentic jamdani, the cut edges around the motifs, woven using the extra-weft technique, reveal its unique craftsmanship. Sometimes jamdani weavers create patterns by continuing the supplementary weft along the entire length and then cutting the excess thread (cutwork jamdani).
However, even in such cases, the reverse turn of the thread along the edge of the motifs or design is noticeable. The body of the sari features a striped pattern created by repeating columns adorned with floral butis and duria (polka dots) in alternating black and gold.
The border features kairi (paisley) motifs in black and gold woven alternately. The pallu (end-piece) is distinguished by korola (bitter gourd) motifs with korat (sharp serrated knife-like edges common in jamdani), giving it a resemblance to traditional jamdani work.
Purity; spiritual awakening; cosmic order. Identified across the lengthwise borders of this object.
Open motif entryContinuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.
Open motif entryIn cutwork (sometimes called the lattice or jaal jamdani method), the supplementary pattern weft is floated freely across the back of the cloth and then carefully sheared away between motifs once the weaving is done — leaving crisp, isolated figures on a sheer ground. It is the everyday cousin of true jamdani, faster to weave and widely produced in Bengal and Varanasi.