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Handloom weaving · Gujarat

Nandi Bull Sari

KL/39/2024 · Accession215" × 46"Handloom weavingCatalogued 13.11.2024● Good condition
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KL/39/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/39/2024
Object Title
Nandi Bull Sari
Production State
Gujarat
Craft Tradition
Handloom weaving
Craft Technique
Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk
Tradition
Handloom
Dimensions
215" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
CreamBlack
Condition
● Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
13.11.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

“A handloom-woven dupion silk sari featuring Nandi motifs (the sacred bull of Lord Shiva) brought to life through a supplementary cotton weft.”

The intricate weaving technique creates a striking diagonal ribbing effect, adding texture and depth to the motifs, making them appear almost appliqued onto the fabric.

Each Nandi is further accentuated with delicate red machine embroidery, skilfully outlining its facial features, coverlet, and jewellery, infusing the design with vibrancy and character.

Framing the sari is a golden zari border, inspired by the traditional Nizam border of Mangalagiri saris.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Temple
मंदिर

Gateway; sacred geometry of the south. Identified across the border and pallu of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Handloom weaving

Handloom
Weaving

Korvai is the Kanjivaram method of joining a contrasting border and pallu to the body of the sari by interlocking the two sets of warp threads on the loom — not by stitching. It allows a deep maroon body to carry a mustard border that will never come apart, and is the structural signature of a true Kanchipuram silk.

STEP 01
Set two contrasting warps
STEP 02
Interlock the warps at the join
STEP 03
Weave with up to three shuttles
STEP 04
Add the supplementary zari
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Korvai process
Fig. III.1 · Korvai · Contrast-border joining
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Nandi Bull Sari (KL/39/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 25 Oct 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-39-2024.
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