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Odisha ikat · Odisha

Bomkai Silk Sari with Temple Border

KL/46/2024 · Accession212" × 46"Odisha ikatCatalogued 15.06.2024Good condition
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KL/46/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/46/2024
Object Title
Bomkai Silk Sari with Temple Border
Production State
Odisha
Craft Tradition
Odisha ikat
Craft Technique
Ikat; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Resist-dyed (ikat) plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk
Tradition
Bomkai
Dimensions
212" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonCreamBlack
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
15.06.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A traditional Odisha handloom sari, renowned for its intricate thread work that adorns the border and pallu (end-piece).

Woven on pit looms by the skilled Bhulia community of Sonepur, this exquisite creation is commonly known as the Bomkai or Sonepuri sari. It is distinguished by its plain body, a contrasting border, and a heavily patterned pallu, making it a striking representation of Odisha’s rich weaving heritage.

The pallu serves as a canvas of artistic expression, featuring ornate motifs inspired by geometry and nature, including floral patterns and rudraksha beads. The temple border design, reminiscent of sacred shrines and architecture, enhances the sari’s traditional appeal, while small woven butis scattered across the body add an extra touch of elegance.

The use of fine silk threads and vibrant colours lends the sari a luxurious and lustrous finish.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Temple
मंदिर

Gateway; sacred geometry of the south. Identified across the border and pallu of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Odisha ikat

Odisha
Ikat

Ikat is among the most demanding of textile techniques — the resist-dye is applied not to finished cloth, but to the yarn itself, before a single thread reaches the loom. Bundles of warp (or weft, or both) are bound and dyed in successive colour baths; the pattern emerges as the loom finally aligns them. In India, three lineages dominate: the double-ikat patola of Patan in Gujarat, the bandha of Odisha, and the cotton and silk ikats of Pochampally and Puttapaka in Telangana.

STEP 01
Sketch the design on graph paper
STEP 02
Bind the yarn bundles with rubber
STEP 03
Dye in successive baths
STEP 04
Align warp and weft on the loom
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Ikat process
Fig. III.1 · Ikat · Resist-dye weaving
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Bomkai Silk Sari with Temple Border (KL/46/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-46-2024.
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