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Odisha ikat · Odisha

Sambalpuri Bandha Sari, Mandala Design

KL/44/2024 · Accession212" × 46"Odisha ikatCatalogued 11.09.2024Good condition
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KL/44/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/44/2024
Object Title
Sambalpuri Bandha Sari, Mandala Design
Production State
Odisha
Craft Tradition
Odisha ikat
Craft Technique
Ikat; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Resist-dyed (ikat) plain weave
Primary Materials
Silk
Tradition
Sambalpuri
Dimensions
212" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonBlackCream
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
11.09.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A bold and captivating pure silk ikat sari from Odisha features a striking mandala design placed in square boxes arranged in a half drop pattern across the body, divided into three sections creating a visually arresting composition.

The aanchal (end-piece) showcases intricate ikat patterns enriched with traditional Odia motifs such as phula (flower), maccha (fish), birds, and more, each carrying deep cultural symbolism.

These motifs are arranged within two concentric rectangular frames, surrounding a central panel adorned with an elaborate floral design.

The rudraksha motif border, produced by the dobby mechanism, runs along the sari’s lengthwise edges and frames the aanchal on both widthwise sides, adding a touch of auspiciousness.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Fish
मत्स्य

Abundance, prosperity, conjugal felicity. Identified across the body field of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Odisha ikat

Odisha
Ikat

Ikat is among the most demanding of textile techniques — the resist-dye is applied not to finished cloth, but to the yarn itself, before a single thread reaches the loom. Bundles of warp (or weft, or both) are bound and dyed in successive colour baths; the pattern emerges as the loom finally aligns them. In India, three lineages dominate: the double-ikat patola of Patan in Gujarat, the bandha of Odisha, and the cotton and silk ikats of Pochampally and Puttapaka in Telangana.

STEP 01
Sketch the design on graph paper
STEP 02
Bind the yarn bundles with rubber
STEP 03
Dye in successive baths
STEP 04
Align warp and weft on the loom
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Ikat process
Fig. III.1 · Ikat · Resist-dye weaving
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Sambalpuri Bandha Sari, Mandala Design (KL/44/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-44-2024.
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