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Baluchari · West Bengal

Baluchari Meenakari Sari

KL/55/2024 · Accession218" × 46"BaluchariCatalogued 20.02.2024Good condition
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KL/55/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/55/2024
Object Title
Baluchari Meenakari Sari
Production State
West Bengal
Craft Tradition
Baluchari
Craft Technique
Brocade; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Supplementary-weft brocade
Primary Materials
Silk · Zari
Tradition
Baluchari
Dimensions
218" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
PlumGoldCream
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
20.02.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A handwoven Baluchari sari in lustrous mulberry silk that creates a monochromatic impression despite the use of different coloured pattern wefts in its creation.

The sari features intricate kairi (paisley) motifs, arranged in a diagonal formation across the body, framed by an elaborate floral and kairi border running lengthwise.

The pallu (end-piece) is a masterpiece of woven storytelling featuring large kairis as its central motifs, enclosed within multiple intricately designed borders of varying widths.

Among these, a remarkable pictorial panel captures social scenes from the court, where European officials engage in conversation, interspersed between kairi vine borders.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Elephant
गज

Royalty, strength, ceremonial power. Identified across the pallu panel of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Baluchari

Baluchari

In supplementary weft technique, the weaver inserts an extra weft yarn — usually metallic zari, sometimes contrasting silk — only along the rows where pattern is required. The result is a brocade: pattern raised above ground, while the base cloth remains structurally complete on its own. This single technique underlies the Banarasi, Paithani, Jamdani, Bomkai and Baluchari traditions — but each has codified its own grammar.

STEP 01
Set the foundation warp and weft
STEP 02
Prepare the supplementary yarn
STEP 03
Insert by hand on a jacquard or jala loom
STEP 04
Trim or float on the reverse
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Supplementary Weft process
Fig. III.1 · Supplementary Weft · Brocade family
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Baluchari Meenakari Sari (KL/55/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-55-2024.
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