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Handloom weaving · West Bengal

Cutwork Sari with Jamdani Design (II)

KL/41/2024 · Accession216" × 46"Handloom weavingCatalogued 09.05.2024Good condition
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KL/41/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/41/2024
Object Title
Cutwork Sari with Jamdani Design (II)
Production State
West Bengal
Craft Tradition
Handloom weaving
Craft Technique
Cutwork; Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave
Primary Materials
Cotton
Tradition
Jamdani
Dimensions
216" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
BeigeMaroon
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
09.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A heavily patterned cutwork woven sari, inspired by the intricate style of jamdani weaving.

The body is adorned with an all over design of delicate floral butis arranged in vertical rows interspersed with rhombus-shaped dots that evoke the beauty of rain showers. Together, the motifs create the vision of a blossoming garden draped in gentle drizzle.

The intricately patterned border and pallu (end-piece) closely resemble a traditional Dhakai sari. The use of thicker threads as extra wefts enhances the depth of the motifs.

With its soothing colour palette and airy texture, the sari exudes a fresh and summary appeal.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Lotus
कमल

Purity; spiritual awakening; cosmic order. Identified across the lengthwise borders of this object.

Open motif entry
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Handloom weaving

Handloom
Weaving

In cutwork (sometimes called the lattice or jaal jamdani method), the supplementary pattern weft is floated freely across the back of the cloth and then carefully sheared away between motifs once the weaving is done — leaving crisp, isolated figures on a sheer ground. It is the everyday cousin of true jamdani, faster to weave and widely produced in Bengal and Varanasi.

STEP 01
Weave with floated supplementary weft
STEP 02
Complete the ground cloth
STEP 03
Shear the floats by hand
STEP 04
Finish and wash
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Cutwork process
Fig. III.1 · Cutwork · Loose-thread shearing
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Cutwork Sari with Jamdani Design (II) (KL/41/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-41-2024.
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