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Muga silk weaving · Assam

Muga Silk Sari, Textured Border

KL/13/2024 · Accession215" × 46"Muga silk weavingCatalogued 14.05.2024● Good condition
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KL/13/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/13/2024
Object Title
Muga Silk Sari, Textured Border
Production State
Assam
Craft Tradition
Muga silk weaving
Craft Technique
Handloom weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave
Primary Materials
Muga silk
Tradition
Muga Silk
Dimensions
215" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
GoldenMaroon
Condition
● Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
14.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

“This one-of-a kind hand-woven sari in pure muga silk is a symbol of rich Assamese culture.”

The body of the sari is enhanced with phool butis in black and white eri silk, closely spaced to create an elegant pattern. The textured border in black and white eri silk is a vision to behold with its contemporary take on traditional weaving.

The borders along the lengthwise sides have been woven separately and then stitched on to the main fabric. The pallu (end-piece) is adorned with diamond motifs interspersed with white meenakari work, adding to the sari’s classic allure.

With its shimmering appearance reminiscent of spun silver, the sari exudes a sense of richness and elegance. The pallu is finished with small bunches of black and white tassels, completing this piece.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Muga silk weaving

Muga Silk
Weaving

Korvai is the Kanjivaram method of joining a contrasting border and pallu to the body of the sari by interlocking the two sets of warp threads on the loom — not by stitching. It allows a deep maroon body to carry a mustard border that will never come apart, and is the structural signature of a true Kanchipuram silk.

STEP 01
Set two contrasting warps
STEP 02
Interlock the warps at the join
STEP 03
Weave with up to three shuttles
STEP 04
Add the supplementary zari
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Korvai process
Fig. III.1 · Korvai · Contrast-border joining
Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Muga Silk Sari, Textured Border (KL/13/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 25 Oct 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-13-2024.
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