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Kasuti embroidery · Karnataka

Two-Tone Kasuti Ilkal Sari

KL/12/2024 · Accession208" × 47"Kasuti embroideryCatalogued 13.05.2024Good condition
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KL/12/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
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Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/12/2024
Object Title
Two-Tone Kasuti Ilkal Sari
Production State
Karnataka
Craft Tradition
Kasuti embroidery
Craft Technique
Hand embroidery; Ilkal weaving
Weave Type
Plain weave ground, hand-embroidered
Primary Materials
Cotton · Silk border
Tradition
Kasuti
Dimensions
208" × 47" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonMustard
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
13.05.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A hand-embroidered, handloom, Ilkal sari features a contrasting border and pallu (end-piece) adorned with kasuti embroidery, a heritage craft of Karnataka.

The body of the sari is made from cotton-viscose, while the pallu is crafted from silk. The intricate embroidery showcases religious and architectural motifs such as temple gopurams, animal motifs like peacocks and elephants with howdahs, as well as various types of foliage and flowers.

Larger designs are depicted near the pallu, while the main body is adorned with scattered geometric motifs of varying sizes. The entire sari is embroidered using two types of stitches: gavanthi (double-running stitch) and murgai (zig-zag stitch) to achieve the desired patterns.

The sari features a traditional Ilkal pallu and chikki paras border along both sides. The pallu is finished with hand-knotted, self-fabric fringes, and additional three-layered purple tassels add a contemporary allure to this classic piece.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Peacock
मयूर

Royal grace; sovereignty; the monsoon's herald. Identified across the body and pallu of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Kasuti embroidery

Kasuti
Embroidery

Embroidery in India is regionally codified to an extraordinary degree: each tradition has its own stitches, its own colour palette, its own placement on the garment, and often its own historical practitioner community. The Krishna Lal Collection holds eight major embroidery traditions — from the running-stitch lyricism of Bengali kantha to the floral darning of Punjabi phulkari and the white-on-white delicacy of Lucknowi chikankari.

STEP 01
Lay the ground cloth
STEP 02
Transfer the design
STEP 03
Embroider stitch by stitch
STEP 04
Wash and finish
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Hand Embroidery process
Fig. III.1 · Hand Embroidery · Surface ornamentation
§ IV — Cross-Linked Discovery

Related Objects in the Collection

Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Two-Tone Kasuti Ilkal Sari (KL/12/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-12-2024.
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