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Phulkari embroidery · Punjab

Phulkari Embroidered Silk Sari

KL/48/2024 · Accession218" × 46"Phulkari embroideryCatalogued 12.10.2024Good condition
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KL/48/2024 · PLATE 01
IIIF DEEP-ZOOM · 8400 × 10500
10 cm
Full Object — Front — high-resolution archival photograph
© The Krishna Lal Collection · Photography by [studio] · Licensed CC BY-NC-SA 4.0 for scholarly use. Request high-resolution access via Research Office.
Catalogue Record

Object Metadata

Accession Number
KL/48/2024
Object Title
Phulkari Embroidered Silk Sari
Production State
Punjab
Craft Tradition
Phulkari embroidery
Craft Technique
Hand embroidery
Weave Type
Plain weave ground, hand-embroidered
Primary Materials
Silk · Silk floss
Tradition
Phulkari
Dimensions
218" × 46" (L × W)
Colour Palette
MaroonPinkYellowGreen
Condition
Good — Stable, no active deterioration
Current Location
The Krishna Lal Collection, New Delhi
Documented By
Sareekah Agarwaal
Documented On
12.10.2024
Schema Standard
Getty Art & Architecture Thesaurus (AAT)
§ I — Curatorial Narrative
by Sareekah Agarwaal, 2024

A handwoven raw silk sari, adorned with phulkari embroidery on the borders and pallu (end-piece).

This piece is a contemporary reinterpretation of traditional phulkari, which was traditionally done on handwoven and handspun khaddar.

The embroidery is executed using untwisted silk floss, known as pat, in varying hues of light and dark orange that create an interesting interplay of colours.

Staying true to its roots, the embroidery follows the age-old technique of counting threads, preserving the authenticity of the craft while adapting it to a luxurious silk base – highlighting how traditional craftsmanship can evolve, making it not only relevant but also sustainable in today’s fashion world.

Footnotes
  1. 1 See Mohanty, B.C., Ikat Fabrics of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, Calico Museum, 1980.
  2. 2 Field interview, master weaver, March 2024.
  3. 3 Refer to motif index entries below.
§ II — Motif Analysis
2 motifs identified
Vines
लताएँ

Continuity; the rhythm of nature. Identified across the creeping borders of this object.

Open motif entry
Geometric
ज्यामिति

Cosmic order; mathematical harmony in weave. Identified across the woven ground of this object.

Open motif entry
§ III — Technique
Phulkari embroidery

Phulkari
Embroidery

Embroidery in India is regionally codified to an extraordinary degree: each tradition has its own stitches, its own colour palette, its own placement on the garment, and often its own historical practitioner community. The Krishna Lal Collection holds eight major embroidery traditions — from the running-stitch lyricism of Bengali kantha to the floral darning of Punjabi phulkari and the white-on-white delicacy of Lucknowi chikankari.

STEP 01
Lay the ground cloth
STEP 02
Transfer the design
STEP 03
Embroider stitch by stitch
STEP 04
Wash and finish
Open technique family
DIAGRAM — Hand Embroidery process
Fig. III.1 · Hand Embroidery · Surface ornamentation
Cite This Object
Agarwaal, S. (2024). Phulkari Embroidered Silk Sari (KL/48/2024). The Krishna Lal Collection: An Archive of Indian Textile Traditions. Retrieved 01 Jun 2026 from krishnalal-collection.org/collection/kl-48-2024.
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